Road Trip "Islands of the North" - Autumn in the North of Norway (Part 2: Traveling on the Lofoten)

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After the photo session in the great and dramatic morning light on Hamnøy, we continue northeast to Fredvang. The region around Ramberg and Fredvang offers some spectacular views as well as opportunities for impressive as well as popular hikes. These lead you, for example, to the "lonely" Kvalvika Bay, which can only be reached on foot or by boat, or to the summit of Ryten. From up there you have a great view of the beaches and coves of the area. Hopefully the weather plays along. The sun shows up more often, but the wind is again threatening and for the night there is a storm warning. When we arrive in Ramberg, a larger town near Fredvang, there are again the first impressive waves on the beach.

Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Herbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 2: Unterwegs auf den Lofoten) - Van, Nordnorwegen, Lofoten, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst - norwegen-rundreisen -
The surf on the beach of Ramberg is imposing

We'll see from which direction the storm will come. He is announced in the top at about 20 meters / second from the northwest. After the first experiences in this regard in the Lofoten, we cross the bridges to Fredvang very quickly. On the one hand, it does not have much fun if the van swings like a fishing boat and on the other hand, the bridges could be blocked. In the lee of the mountain range of the Ryten, we are looking for a place early today to be safe and sound when it storms in the coming night. After a short drive through Fredvang and always follow the road FV 808, it goes up to a bay at Kroa. There we find the perfect place for the storm night. These we survive well there and the next morning is the perfect weather - as if nothing had happened ...

Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Herbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 2: Unterwegs auf den Lofoten) - Van, Nordnorwegen, Lofoten, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst - norwegen-rundreisen -
Our parking space in the bottom right corner of the picture - taken the next morning with the drone

Perfect conditions for our planned hike to the bay Kvalvika. We will consider briefly whether we should go the larger round trip to the beach of Kvalvika and over the summit of the Ryten. Due to the massive rainfall of the last days, all roads are muddy and there is already a "material battle" to be expected. So - but only the short tour directly to the bay. We drive from our pitch about three kilometers to the parking lot, from which the hike officially begins. Since this little place is already crowded, it goes back a little bit. We find a parking lot for us, about 300 meters away and walk to the starting point of the tour. There we begin our hike through the beautiful nature and reach after about an hour the fabulously beautiful beach of Kvalvika. (You will find all the details of this extremely beautiful hike in a separate post here on our blog.)

Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Herbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 2: Unterwegs auf den Lofoten) - Van, Nordnorwegen, Lofoten, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst - norwegen-rundreisen -
The bay of Kvalvika with its legendary beach is just over an hour ahead of us ...

The bay is actually a little paradise. We are looking for a sheltered place and eat our "Matpakke" (too good German "food package"). The waves of the sea are constantly rolling with indescribable power - a surfer's paradise. That's how we imagine Hawai - only a few degrees warmer. We want to climb along the cliffs in the neighboring bay next to the Kvalvika, but have to give up the project after a short time, because the waves are too high and our plan is therefore too dangerous.

Now it is time to look for another highlight in this bay: Two Norwegian surfers built here a few years ago from garbage and flotsam a hut between the rocks and lived as a dropout 9 months in winter here. This small hut, a kind of hobbit cave by Inge Wegge and Jørn Nyseth Ranum, can still be found on the beach today and can even use it. Out of gratitude for the great time in the bay, far away from civilization, the two have left their hut behind so that it can be used as shelter or as a drop-out. Her adventures from this period are now filmed in the successful work "North Of The Sun". Here you can see the trailer for the movie:

North of the sun teaser from Weggefilms on Vimeo .

We find the hut, well hidden, between some rocks on the beach and are fascinated. Do you know the movie "Into the Wild" (

In the hut of the two surfers in the bay Kvalvika in the Lofoten
View of the summit of Ryten - the mountain in the background

On the last part of our way back we will be rewarded with breathtaking views over the Torsfjorden. This is now like a mirror in front of us and the surrounding mountains form a magical backdrop. At last - that's how we expected the Lofoten in autumn ... 🙂 We take a lot of pictures before we get to our car. Quick still the hiking boots off and on to the next parking space. We want to spend the next night near Myrland. There we already know from some previous tours fantastic beaches, where there is certainly one or the other parking space for us.

Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Herbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 2: Unterwegs auf den Lofoten) - Van, Nordnorwegen, Lofoten, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst - norwegen-rundreisen -
Reflections in the clear autumn air on the Torsfjorden

After a short drive towards Myrland we come in advance through the small settlement Storsandnes with the same beach Storsandnes Beach. There we also find one of the plots from the category "priceless paradise" ... Alone on the beach, with a view that is simply unbelievable. After an extensive photo session on the beach, we are already planning the next day: In any case, now that the weather is getting better and better, we want to visit the fishing village of Nusfjord. After a night on the beach at Storsandnes beach, the next morning the snow-capped peaks of the area are illuminated and while Conny is having breakfast, for Sirko the new day inevitably begins with another photo session.

Minigallery Storsandnes Beach

Then we head to Nusfjord quite quickly. For today the perfect photo weather is announced: rain, sun and clouds in change - so ideal conditions for the planned tour. From the pitch in Storsandnes we only need half an hour to reach the destination. On the way there we have to stop briefly to photograph one of the popular "road trip motifs": The road that leads to the massif around the 800 meter high mountain Bjørntinden. Unfortunately, the light is not exactly sensational - but the view really terrific:

The way is the goal - as so often in Lofoten

In Nusfjord we park in the village just above the houses on a fairly large parking lot. The colorful wooden houses of the village shine in the light of the autumn sun. It's just too perfect to be true. Quickly we search for a perfect place to capture this panorama. We climb the various hills around and in the village until we have the best view of this idyll.

Nusfjord - a fishing village in Lofoten as if from a picture book

Then we walk through the village, which, like many others in Lofoten, reminds of a mighty open-air museum. After a delicious coffee in the restaurant "Karoline", we simply enjoy the atmosphere and the sun before continuing. After a short flight of our drone over the sea we drive back to the European road E 10 and continue on our road trip.

View with the drone from the sea to this wonderful place

We have another goal for this day: Vikten - a small village on the north side of Lofoten located directly on the sea. The place is known for its local glassblowing. Maybe we'll discover a nice souvenir? The trip there alone is (again) an experience and so the disappointment is limited, as we stand in front of closed doors. The glassblowing shop with the shop is open only a few hours a day during low season and we are just too late. So we drive to the tunnel Nappstraumentunnelen and there at the Nappholmen on a nicely located parking space to spend the night. ( This link will take you directly to this pitch with all the details and the exact location )

On the way to the village Vikten on the north side of Lofoten

After breakfast we continue the next morning - on the E 10 through the tunnel to the Lofoten island Vestvågøy. There, in the bay of Unstad, the most northerly surfing competition in the world is taking place. We have already heard about this fantastic hotspot and now we have a championship in the Polar Sea - there we have to go ... The "Lofoten Masters" have been around since 2007 and since then surfers from all over the world meet here every year. A few tunnels and kilometers later we are on the beach of Unstad. There is a lot going on for Norwegian conditions and after we have finally found a parking space between the many vans from all over the world, we plunge - of course only as a spectator - into the fray.

Mini Gallery Lofoten Masters Unstad 2018

After a grilled sausage we continue: Borgvåg is our next destination. According to our research in advance of this road trip, there are some old and dilapidated houses with the touch of "Lost Places". When we arrive, we realize that it is factually correct, but such houses just actually expire more and more. In this respect, there are still some remains and ruins, which we photograph in the appropriate, gloomy light. Then it goes on to the next parking lot on the European route E 10, because there you can dispose of his camper toilet sensational from the camper and supply. At a free machine, the toilet is disposed of and cleaned at the same time - a dream for campers ... So prepared, we drive in a good mood to Eggum. This village is not far away also on the north coast and should offer equally beautiful beaches, a very popular sculpture, great hiking trails and a fantastic communal camperplace.

Mini gallery "Lost Places" in Borgvåg

Eggum is really a dream. The village has preserved its originality despite the many tourists. At the end of the village begins a toll road that leads to the beaches, a coffee and finally to the parking space. We throw the 30 NOK (about 3 euros) in the box and pass this gate. In the main season for the overnight stay another 100 NOK (about 10 €) for the night to be paid. There are fresh water, toilets and a fantastic parking space. We prepare for the next night and can enjoy an incredible sunset on the beach.

Sunset on the beach of Eggum

A little later we sit in our van, develop the pictures of the day and edit our Facebook account. The sky has been raised for days and we check our forecasting tools for the Northern Lights. Should we be lucky ...? Actually, from 22.00 clock activities in the Lofoten be expected. Conny looks regularly through the roof window above our bed, which mutates on such days always to the "lookout". Suddenly the call: "Northern Lights Alarm" and thus begins a well-known routine for Sirko: The practiced handle to the tripod, the headlamp, camera and let's go ...

The "Lady Aurora" dances over the beach of Eggum

We enjoy the dancing northern lights until late at night, filming this phenomenon and once again can not get enough of it. Going to sleep now? Impossible! We recognize well-known figures in the dancing northern lights, but also see completely new formations, colors and movements. It is unbelievably beautiful and we are almost addicted to it. On a quiet, clear winter night in the mountains you can even hear the northern lights very softly, but this is drowned out by the surf. Only very late do we fall dead tired, but happy, to bed. The next morning it has already receded, but still we go a bit the famous coastal path that connects the bays of Eggum and Unstad (the surfer's paradise).

Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Herbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 2: Unterwegs auf den Lofoten) - Van, Nordnorwegen, Lofoten, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst - norwegen-rundreisen -
The coastal path between Unstad and Eggum

Along the way is the well-known sculpture with the head of a woman looking out over the endless expanse of the Arctic Ocean. This was created in 1992 by Swiss artist Markus Raetz and is a popular photo subject. After about two hours we return to our camper. The weather is getting better and we are just driving over the island to stop in some of the most beautiful spots for some pictures or just to enjoy the view.

Mini gallery "Autumn Day in Lofoten" (Vestvågøy Island and surrounding area)

Finally, we'll take a look at Ballstad on this day. The church of Ballstad "Buksnes Kirke" is very popular because of its architecture and so we deliberately planned this detour there. The place itself has little to offer at least at this time of year and for us also hardly a special flair. The fishery here seems to be heavily industrialized, and many of its buildings characterize the coastline. After a photo stop at the church, we drive purposefully on the road 815 towards Valberg. We deliberately avoid the European route E 10 in order to gain new insights and insights on the south coast of Lofoten ...

Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Herbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 2: Unterwegs auf den Lofoten) - Van, Nordnorwegen, Lofoten, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst - norwegen-rundreisen -
The Buksnes church at Ballstad in typical kite architecture

We spend the night on a beautiful pitch near the road 815 directly on the sea. From there, the next day is not far away until the next destination: Henningsvær. We absolutely want to go there again, as the weather was not so optimal on our first stay a few days ago. Since the fishing village is on the way anyway and for us one of the most beautiful places in Lofoten counts, so it is obvious to stop there again.

Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Herbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 2: Unterwegs auf den Lofoten) - Van, Nordnorwegen, Lofoten, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst - norwegen-rundreisen -
View of the "Venice of the North" Henningsvær

We park as in the last time in the large parking lot at the entrance and run from there through the streets. There must be some street art images in town, which we would like to find among other things. At a store in a fishing business, we later discover one of the popular motifs. However, due to the many renovations and renovations in the village obviously some of the really well-made images are actually no longer findable. After strengthening in the café, it's time to start our planned hike to the "city hill" of Henningsvær, the Heia. The sun is now setting early and we would like to enjoy this moment from the summit.

Mini Gallery "Henningsvær - the Venice of the North"

We park just outside Henningsvær in a parking bay and start our climb from there. The path can not be missed and after less than an hour we are standing on the summit of the Nipen - which offers an even better view over the bay and the whole Lofoten. The Heia is about 50 meters next to us and you can move up here well and freely - depending on which direction you want to look. (All details on this tour will be available shortly in this separate article). Unfortunately, powerful rain clouds hide the sun. Sunset? None. But as so often we have luck at the last moment. Maybe it is the reward that we have waited and not given up? With goose bumps on our arms we enjoy this moment and also this view ...

Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Herbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 2: Unterwegs auf den Lofoten) - Van, Nordnorwegen, Lofoten, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst - norwegen-rundreisen -
View from the nipen in the sunset

In the last light of day we begin the descent back to our RV. In the approaching darkness we drive to the parking lot of the viewpoint at the church of Sildpollnes. There we will stay overnight to use the early light for some pictures tomorrow. In any case, the Sildpollnes Kirke is obviously one of the most photographed churches in Lofoten, as the motif is really impressive. In fact, the next morning we have a fantastic backdrop: snow on the mountain peaks, autumn colors on the slopes and a warm sunlight. First, we take the familiar motif from the viewpoint:

Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Herbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 2: Unterwegs auf den Lofoten) - Van, Nordnorwegen, Lofoten, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst - norwegen-rundreisen -
View of the church of Sildpollnes (Lofoten)

Insider tip from us: Below the lookout point and only to reach the road E 10 is an old shipwreck. From there, there is another great panorama and thus a unique photo opportunity. You can photograph the harbor and / or the wreck perfectly in this scenery.

Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Herbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 2: Unterwegs auf den Lofoten) - Van, Nordnorwegen, Lofoten, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst - norwegen-rundreisen -
The wreckage of the old fishing boat was hidden below the European road

The weather is perfect and therefore we do not stay here long, because we have another exciting destination ahead of us: the so-called "Imperial Route" to Digermulen. The drive there leads through the imposing Raftsund, where also the striking ships of the Hurtigruten drive along. In any case, one should connect a trip on or over the Lofoten with a trip there, even if this region officially belongs to the neighboring archipelago of Vesterålen. And there it goes now - in the third part of the contribution series of this road trip.

On the following map you can see where we were exactly on our road trip "Islands of the North"

Conny and Sirko

"Yes, we love this country ..." - that's the beginning of the Norwegian national anthem, and yes, we too - Conny Sirko - love this country, its inhabitants, the magnificent scenery, the peace and tranquility that we enjoy there and throughout Scandinavia Find. We've been touring the North more than 20 times - at different times, in many regions and in all variations. The idea for this homepage came to us last year, because then we have the opportunity to write the permanent wanderlust to the north of the soul and hopefully inspire you for it. So: heading north!

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