Road Trip "Islands of the North" - Late Autumn in the North of Norway (Part 5: Senja Island)

border=0

In the fifth part of the exciting series about our tour of Norway by van, we take you on the island of Senja in the north of Norway, where we can already imagine the approaching winter.

Arrival on Senja

As mentioned in the last part of our series of articles, we are now on our way to Norway's second largest island, Senja. It is pouring like pitchers and is uncomfortably cold. Although we are traveling on the European Route E 6, the road is swept empty. So we roll in relatively poor visibility in the direction of Finnsnes. When we reach Senja, our expectation is dashed that the weather could be better here. We had some hikes in the Ånderdalen National Park made ...

So, before we plan the next few days of our tour, we check the weather: Oje, it should continue pouring and for the whole island the same weather is predicted. So we drive, as originally planned, in the direction of the National Park, to look for us nearby a nice parking space and wait until the weather improves.

Not far from the road 860 we quickly find a perfect parking space on a trail parking lot in the woods. There we use the time in the van to work on our blog, to maintain our social media channels and finally to play cards again. When we wake up the next morning, the weather is hardly better ... Nevertheless, we decide to make a detour to Skrolsvik. The road there is very narrow, but offers enough alternative bays.

Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Spätherbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 5: Insel Senja) - Vesteralen, Van, Senja, Roadtrip, Nordnorwegen, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst, Andøya - norwegen-rundreisen - Im fünften Teil der spannenden Beitragsserie über unsere Norwegen-Rundreise mit dem Kastenwagen, nehmen wir dich mit auf die Insel Senja im Norden von Norwegen, wo wir den herannahenden Winter bereits erahnen können.
The old commander's house
Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Spätherbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 5: Insel Senja) - Vesteralen, Van, Senja, Roadtrip, Nordnorwegen, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst, Andøya - norwegen-rundreisen - Im fünften Teil der spannenden Beitragsserie über unsere Norwegen-Rundreise mit dem Kastenwagen, nehmen wir dich mit auf die Insel Senja im Norden von Norwegen, wo wir den herannahenden Winter bereits erahnen können.
The cannons are freely accessible around
Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Spätherbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 5: Insel Senja) - Vesteralen, Van, Senja, Roadtrip, Nordnorwegen, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst, Andøya - norwegen-rundreisen - Im fünften Teil der spannenden Beitragsserie über unsere Norwegen-Rundreise mit dem Kastenwagen, nehmen wir dich mit auf die Insel Senja im Norden von Norwegen, wo wir den herannahenden Winter bereits erahnen können.
The landing craft on the beach

When we arrive in the southwest of Senja, it even stopped raining and so we explore the area. We come across an old military facility, a fortress directly on the coast. Numerous bunkers and old guns from World War II can be seen here. Was there a museum here?

Some inscriptions on the houses and bunkers suggest it. A little further on we see an old landing craft in a bay. This is just as abandoned and freely accessible as the whole area. You can climb in or out everywhere and look around.

Somehow brooding, irritated and impressed we leave this place. On the way back, we buy some food, as it starts to pour from buckets again. So we spend another night on the pitch, which we already used last night.

Our trip today has left many questions with us. So we research a little and find the following information: The plant Skrolsvik on Senjehesten was built in 1941 as a coastal fort and taken over by the Norwegian Navy after the war. But when a new base was built in Meløyvær in the Cold War in 1989, the old facility was shut down. After that, the fort was temporarily used as a museum. Then unfortunately the track loses. Now the plant is already heavily exposed to decay and somehow a huge adventure playground.

Unfortunately, the weather does not seem to get any better in the foreseeable future. So we decide to set out for Gryllefjord. After the rainy days a hike in the National Park is probably not the best idea anyway.

Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Spätherbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 5: Insel Senja) - Vesteralen, Van, Senja, Roadtrip, Nordnorwegen, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst, Andøya - norwegen-rundreisen - Im fünften Teil der spannenden Beitragsserie über unsere Norwegen-Rundreise mit dem Kastenwagen, nehmen wir dich mit auf die Insel Senja im Norden von Norwegen, wo wir den herannahenden Winter bereits erahnen können.
A violent storm is catching up

What we do not yet know at this time: There is a current weather warning, because a storm comes from the west to the island of Senja. Ironically, in Gryllefjord is expected to massive storm and gale gusts. In fact, the closer we get to the fjord, the stronger the wind gets.

So we need a safe parking space fast! But go back across the bridges in this weather? Mhm, there are not many possibilities here at the fjord. Therefore, we are relieved when we soon find a sheltered place. This is very far back on a small fissure of the fjord, on the old, no longer used road to Gryllefjord. The climax of the storm is yet to come. We are therefore a bit queasy and we hope that the spook is over soon.

That night, it rocks very badly and we are relieved when the day dawns. Only now do we see that all the surrounding peaks are sugared white. Fortunately, the storm has eased a bit and so we drive on a section of the 102-kilometer Norwegian National Tourist Route Senja, as far as Hamn.

There is a beautiful resort (Hamn i Senja), which we already know from an earlier trip. After a few photos and a coffee in the restaurant of the plant, we make our way to the legendary 44 -meter- long viewing platform Bergbotn. There you have an overwhelming view of the Bergsfjord and the surrounding mountains. But already on the way there we discover great photo opportunities, which we do not want to withhold from you:

Shortly before our destination on Bergbotn, the upcoming winter announces itself for the first time. On the pass to Berg is already a closed snow cover and we are surprised by this winter scenery. Hard to believe, but the snow line is already below 600 meters.

Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Spätherbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 5: Insel Senja) - Vesteralen, Van, Senja, Roadtrip, Nordnorwegen, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst, Andøya - norwegen-rundreisen - Im fünften Teil der spannenden Beitragsserie über unsere Norwegen-Rundreise mit dem Kastenwagen, nehmen wir dich mit auf die Insel Senja im Norden von Norwegen, wo wir den herannahenden Winter bereits erahnen können.

When we finally reach the Bergsbotn platform, there is nothing to see but gray, thick clouds.

Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Spätherbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 5: Insel Senja) - Vesteralen, Van, Senja, Roadtrip, Nordnorwegen, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst, Andøya - norwegen-rundreisen - Im fünften Teil der spannenden Beitragsserie über unsere Norwegen-Rundreise mit dem Kastenwagen, nehmen wir dich mit auf die Insel Senja im Norden von Norwegen, wo wir den herannahenden Winter bereits erahnen können.
Pitch at the mountain by the sea

We drive further into the village of Berg below the sea and immediately find a sensational parking space directly by the sea. Again, we stand alone, once more ... The days are getting shorter and shorter and it is obviously winter in the north of Norway.

For the next day, the Norwegian weather service finally promises sunshine again. We get up early, have breakfast at dusk and set off for sunrise.

Today, finally, once again hiked! We drive to the place Skaland and see soon the church, from which the hike is to begin. We park there in the parking lot and orient ourselves on the board with the information about this tour. Our backpacks and photo equipment are already packed: on to Husfjellet! The mountain is 632 meters high and the tour should not be too demanding. Sturdy footwear is a must, however, as the trail leads through marshy areas.

It feels so good to finally be back in nature after several days in a van. A beautiful landscape through which we hike here. The late autumn conjures wonderful colors in the fjell. The climb is moderate and you can enjoy impressive views at any time. Due to the rain and snow of the last days, however, it is quite smooth and we must be extremely careful because of the sloping terrain.

Mini Gallery "Hike to Husfjellet"

After about 2 hours we reach the summit and are just speechless. We did not expect this foresight and this panorama. The view extends over the whole mountains, along the coast and into the fjords of Senja.

Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Spätherbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 5: Insel Senja) - Vesteralen, Van, Senja, Roadtrip, Nordnorwegen, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst, Andøya - norwegen-rundreisen - Im fünften Teil der spannenden Beitragsserie über unsere Norwegen-Rundreise mit dem Kastenwagen, nehmen wir dich mit auf die Insel Senja im Norden von Norwegen, wo wir den herannahenden Winter bereits erahnen können.
What a lofty view from the summit of Husfjellet

We just can not get enough. So we look into the distance for a while and dream ... Already in the early afternoon, the sun is already very deep again and begins to immerse the whole scenery in a magical, golden light.

Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Spätherbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 5: Insel Senja) - Vesteralen, Van, Senja, Roadtrip, Nordnorwegen, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst, Andøya - norwegen-rundreisen - Im fünften Teil der spannenden Beitragsserie über unsere Norwegen-Rundreise mit dem Kastenwagen, nehmen wir dich mit auf die Insel Senja im Norden von Norwegen, wo wir den herannahenden Winter bereits erahnen können.
Look at the "bit of the devil"

In the late afternoon we start the return journey and then plan the rest of our tour in our van. For the night we have already selected a parking space, which we now only target. In the bay of Steinfjord there is a small parking lot off the road and right on the beach - just perfect! After a few minutes we are traveling there and prepare for the night.

In the evening it is starry and full moon. If the northern lights are today ... Our Aurora Borealis forecast promises good chances for the next few hours. Door open - door closed: Sirko is constantly checking if there are any activities. When a first light glow is visible, he is completely excited and rushes to the beach. The perfect backdrop: full moon, snowy peaks, beach, clouds on the horizon. Around 2:00 o'clock and after felt 1000 pictures we go to bed satisfied.

Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Spätherbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 5: Insel Senja) - Vesteralen, Van, Senja, Roadtrip, Nordnorwegen, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst, Andøya - norwegen-rundreisen - Im fünften Teil der spannenden Beitragsserie über unsere Norwegen-Rundreise mit dem Kastenwagen, nehmen wir dich mit auf die Insel Senja im Norden von Norwegen, wo wir den herannahenden Winter bereits erahnen können.
Northern lights in a fantastic setting - such moments are the greatest riches of the earth

We're so excited when we check the weather forecast the next morning. For the next few days is also a mix of sun and clouds announced.

So do not dawdle for a long time. We continued our road trip to the next vantage point: Tungeneset . There you will find a very popular photo-hotspot - the approximately 700-meter-high mountain range Okshornan (also called "bit of the devil").

Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Spätherbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 5: Insel Senja) - Vesteralen, Van, Senja, Roadtrip, Nordnorwegen, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst, Andøya - norwegen-rundreisen - Im fünften Teil der spannenden Beitragsserie über unsere Norwegen-Rundreise mit dem Kastenwagen, nehmen wir dich mit auf die Insel Senja im Norden von Norwegen, wo wir den herannahenden Winter bereits erahnen können.
An overwhelming sight as the rugged mountains of the Okshornan Mountains plunge down into the sea

The sea is very turbulent here, meters high waves burst on the rocks of the coast. The gout splashes on the stones and makes them wet and slippery. We have to be careful and not be too close to the surf.

Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Spätherbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 5: Insel Senja) - Vesteralen, Van, Senja, Roadtrip, Nordnorwegen, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst, Andøya - norwegen-rundreisen - Im fünften Teil der spannenden Beitragsserie über unsere Norwegen-Rundreise mit dem Kastenwagen, nehmen wir dich mit auf die Insel Senja im Norden von Norwegen, wo wir den herannahenden Winter bereits erahnen können.
The well-known reflection on the teeth of the devil

The danger of getting soaking wet today is great. After countless photos, it is a little later time to just listen to the sound of the sea and enjoy the sun.

Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Spätherbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 5: Insel Senja) - Vesteralen, Van, Senja, Roadtrip, Nordnorwegen, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst, Andøya - norwegen-rundreisen - Im fünften Teil der spannenden Beitragsserie über unsere Norwegen-Rundreise mit dem Kastenwagen, nehmen wir dich mit auf die Insel Senja im Norden von Norwegen, wo wir den herannahenden Winter bereits erahnen können.
Northern lights at Ersfjord

Later we drive to the Ersfjord and pay a visit to the "Golden Toilet" . The fact that the Norwegians have a very special relationship with their toilets was already worth this post on our blog. The golden outer lining and the triangular shape make this toilet house a landmark in itself.

After a walk on the beach, we take a look at what our galley has to offer and decide to cook spaghetti with salmon. No sooner are we done with the food, there are again northern lights and Sirko is already on and off ...

Continue on the Norwegian scenic route along the west coast to Fjordgård. Senja is a photo paradise, every few miles there is something new to see and so we are making slow progress.

The tunnels on the road to Fjordgård are also very exciting: they are very dark, with no lighting and only one lane. But luckily there are some stops in the tunnels. When we arrive in the small village, we see how wintery it already is here. We have to postpone our heart's desire to climb the Segla. At the end of Fjordgård there is a parking space set up by the municipality, which we are happy to use for the next night. The place is a dream, with a fantastic view of the fjord and the snow-capped peaks. We donate a small amount to a box there to thank us in this way.

Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Spätherbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 5: Insel Senja) - Vesteralen, Van, Senja, Roadtrip, Nordnorwegen, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst, Andøya - norwegen-rundreisen - Im fünften Teil der spannenden Beitragsserie über unsere Norwegen-Rundreise mit dem Kastenwagen, nehmen wir dich mit auf die Insel Senja im Norden von Norwegen, wo wir den herannahenden Winter bereits erahnen können.
Municipal parking space in Fjordgård

A Facebook follower told us about another mountain here on the fjord, the Hesten, from which one should have a magnificent view of the Segla. We'll try that tomorrow!

The next day, as we look out the window, we realize there was fresh snow. Nevertheless, we want to try to climb the Hesten (556 meters). The tour starts quite easy, is well marked and leads us through a birch grove. We're still in the shade, but we can already see the sun's rays. As if inspired, we run towards the sun.

As we catch the first rays, we are already stomping through the fresh snow. The sun warms and does us really well. We hope to make it to the finish, because it is still a long way. Due to the snow there is no marking and we just follow the fresh tracks in the snow. The Segla is already in sight and the further we go, the more spectacular the view of the cult mountain of Senja. The view is difficult to put into words similar to the Husfjellet.

Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Spätherbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 5: Insel Senja) - Vesteralen, Van, Senja, Roadtrip, Nordnorwegen, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst, Andøya - norwegen-rundreisen - Im fünften Teil der spannenden Beitragsserie über unsere Norwegen-Rundreise mit dem Kastenwagen, nehmen wir dich mit auf die Insel Senja im Norden von Norwegen, wo wir den herannahenden Winter bereits erahnen können.
Incredibly impressive - to the amazement beautiful

The panorama is breathtaking and you have to pinch yourself, because you often have the feeling of standing in a painting. However, we dare not go to the summit of Hesten. It's just too smooth for that. We enjoy the moment and hope the eyes burn into our irises ....

Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Spätherbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 5: Insel Senja) - Vesteralen, Van, Senja, Roadtrip, Nordnorwegen, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst, Andøya - norwegen-rundreisen - Im fünften Teil der spannenden Beitragsserie über unsere Norwegen-Rundreise mit dem Kastenwagen, nehmen wir dich mit auf die Insel Senja im Norden von Norwegen, wo wir den herannahenden Winter bereits erahnen können. Back at the van, we continue our journey. A short drive to the small island of Husøy, which lies in the middle of the Øyfjord, is still on the program. However, driving there is a real adventure. You have to cross a small pass and suddenly we have arrived - in the dead of winter. The outside temperature actually shows minus 10 degrees. The road is completely covered in snow, over frozen and very smooth.

In front of a tunnel, the traffic jams because of a sloping truck. Apparently we are not the only ones who are somewhat surprised by the winter landscape. At a snail's pace, we continue our journey and are happy when we finally reach our destination.

Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Spätherbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 5: Insel Senja) - Vesteralen, Van, Senja, Roadtrip, Nordnorwegen, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst, Andøya - norwegen-rundreisen - Im fünften Teil der spannenden Beitragsserie über unsere Norwegen-Rundreise mit dem Kastenwagen, nehmen wir dich mit auf die Insel Senja im Norden von Norwegen, wo wir den herannahenden Winter bereits erahnen können.
A small island in the middle of the fjord

At the port of Husøy there is a municipal parking space, which we would like to use. For 100 Norwegian kroner we can even take fresh water here and dispose of our toilet. On the small island, there is also a grocer and we decide to shop there while exploring the place.

In the harbor are large fishing boats in front of the processing and warehouses. The island is obviously heavily influenced by fishing. In the "Joker" shop, we buy the most important food. In the fish counter, we discover several fish specialties, including a warm smoked salmon, which is freshly produced here. We have to try that. Back in the box van, we start with the salmon - a real delicacy.

After the washing up is done we do not come to rest. Again there are northern lights. We fly all over the island - from place to place and always to where the strongest activities are. This natural phenomenon is an experience that never bores us. Again and again there are new forms or figures to discover.

Once again the night was quite short as the northern lights danced deep into the night. You are interested in Northern Lights photography? Then you will find our blog post here.

With a crying eye we have to leave today the island of Senja and continue towards Tromsø. But we come back in any case: Senja is a dream and the Segla is still on our "To Do List". However, it remains to be seen whether we manage to pass the small pass on the way back from Husøy. The smooth road in combination with the slope is a challenge, but in the end we manage it.

Overview and download service

By clicking on the title page of the German->Visit Senja ) you can save it as a PDF or download it to prepare your own tours perfectly:

Roadtrip"Inseln des Nordens" - Spätherbst im Norden von Norwegen (Teil 5: Insel Senja) - Vesteralen, Van, Senja, Roadtrip, Nordnorwegen, Inseln des Nordens, Inseln, Herbst, Andøya - norwegen-rundreisen - Im fünften Teil der spannenden Beitragsserie über unsere Norwegen-Rundreise mit dem Kastenwagen, nehmen wir dich mit auf die Insel Senja im Norden von Norwegen, wo wir den herannahenden Winter bereits erahnen können.
PDF brochure "Hiking on Senja"

On the following map you can see where we were in this part of our road trip "Islands of the North":

How our tour on the Norwegian mainland continued, what we experienced in Tromsø and how we paid a visit to Santa Claus at the Arctic Circle in Finland, you can read in the sixth part of our series of contributions.

Conny and Sirko

"Yes, we love this country ..." - that's the beginning of the Norwegian national anthem, and yes, we too - Conny Sirko - love this country, its inhabitants, the magnificent scenery, the peace and tranquility that we enjoy there and throughout Scandinavia Find. We've been touring the North more than 20 times - at different times, in many regions and in all variations. The idea for this homepage came to us last year, because then we have the opportunity to write the permanent wanderlust to the north of the soul and hopefully inspire you for it. So: heading north!

2 comments

  • Hello you two,
    This is a great report and we like to go to the North again and again. For a few years now with our own van and our dog. Two years ago we were in Lofoten in June. In which month were you on Senja? We have not seen the northern lights, but we really want to catch up.
    greeting
    Astrid, Stefan and Sam

    • Hello you three,

      Thank you for your nice feedback and the great comment. We were in Senja in October and had almost every evening a veritable fireworks of northern lights. However, we were able to admire them already in the first half of September south of the Lofoten. From our experience of the last autumn trips we can recommend you to travel in the second half of September in the north. Since you have a high probability of northern lights and usually the best autumn weather and a real "Indian Summer" with beautiful colors. A wonderful trip leads along the Helgelandskysten, which we described here in this article (LINK) .
      We wish you always great travel and always good trip.

      Best regards,
      Conny and Sirko

EXCELLENT AS BEST SCANDINAVIA - TRAVEL BLOG 2019

Our newsletter informs you monthly about new contributions:

We currently read:

"The Circle of All Sins" Thrilling thriller by the Norwegian Torkil Damhaug

(* Affiliate Link / more about this in the imprint )

We are currently listening:

"Heartbreak Century (Deluxe Gold Edition)" Sunrise Avenue - Sound from Finland ...


(* Affiliate Link / more about this in the imprint )

Our specialist for photographic equipment:



(* Affiliate Link / more about this in the imprint )

We are a member of the Norwegian hiking and tourist association DNT

We are signatories of the Outdoor Blogger Code

We are PRO AUTHOR of the Northern Europe magazine NORDIS

Don`t copy text!